When I say Montana, what’s the first thing that comes to mind?
If you said cowboys, grizzly bears, and scenes from the show Yellowstone? Yeah, same.
Turns out I wasn’t that far off. The state did offer all of that and then some.
After saying goodbye to the state of Washington in May, I thought that it would be a good time to start making my way back east. I knew that I wanted to visit one more state within the western region and decided on Montana.
This was another state that admittedly I had very little background knowledge on, but knew from what I had seen on TV and social media that it was a state I wanted to experience for myself!
So with that, I said goodbye to the coast and made my way inland for the next month.
Spoiler alert: it was one of the best choices I’ve made so far.
Bozeman has a long, rich history rooted in exploration, rugged independence, and deep Indigenous roots. Long before settlers made their way to this valley, the area was home to Native American tribes such as the Crow, Blackfeet, and Shoshone. This was and still is sacred land, rich with natural resources and seasonal migration paths.
The city itself was founded in the 1860s, around the same time gold was being discovered all over Montana territory. John Bozeman, for whom the town is named, helped guide settlers through the Bozeman Trail, a shortcut off the Oregon Trail. While he’s become something of a folk figure in Montana lore, the town’s story is much bigger than him.
Bozeman grew quickly, thanks to its strategic location nestled in the Gallatin Valley. By the 1880s, the arrival of the Northern Pacific Railway turned it into a bustling little hub and later, with the founding of Montana State University, the city gained its reputation as a forward-thinking, adventure-loving, and surprisingly educated outpost in the American West.
I arrived in Bozeman just in time to catch the tail end of “second winter,” which locals assure me is a totally real and completely expected thing around here. My first week included everything from 38-degree rain to full-blown bluebird skies and 70-degree afternoons.
By the end of the month, the weather had mellowed out, offering up perfect hiking temps during the day and crisp, cozy evenings that practically begged for a cocktail on the patio.
I don’t even know where to start with the nature in and around Bozeman because it’s everywhere.
I mean this quite literally, step outside your front door, and within 15 minutes you could be waist-deep in a mountain meadow or standing beside a roaring creek with snowcapped peaks in every direction.
I was incredibly lucky as the unit that I was staying in was super close to Hyalite Canyon. Lakes, waterfalls, great hiking trails and a wall of peaks that look like they belong on a postcard. Not to mention, Yellowstone National Park is just 90 minutes away. I was fortunate enough to take three separate trips to this national park while in Montana. I can easily see why it is coined ‘The Oldest and the Greatest’.
Montana is also home to Glacier National Park and while it is located almost five hours away from Bozeman itself, it is undoubtedly worth the drive. It is one of the most beautiful places that I have had the fortune of seeing here in the United States. Spanning over a million acres, the park is home to rugged mountain peaks, pristine alpine lakes, dense forests, and over 700 miles of hiking trails. It also preserves a rich variety of wildlife, including grizzly bears, mountain goats, and big horn sheep. The iconic Going-to-the-Sun Road offers breathtaking scenic drives through the heart of the park. With its unique geological features and deep cultural history tied to Native American tribes, Glacier National Park stands as truly the Crown of the Continent.
Bozeman’s does have some public transit, the main being the Streamline Bus, which is completely free. It runs four main routes around town and hits key places like the university, downtown, and even some of the bigger shopping areas.
That said, this is still a smaller mountain town, so if you’re planning to explore outside of city limits or hit the trailheads, you’ll definitely want a car. Uber is available, though a bit hit or miss during off-hours, and Bozeman also has a modest bike infrastructure if you’re feeling ambitious and the weather cooperates.
Bottom line: you can get around without a car if you’re staying mostly in town, but if adventure is on the agenda (and it should be), renting a vehicle should absolutely be the move.
The downtown area is walkable, clean, and full of charm. There’s an old west meets modern vibe happening, with historic brick buildings sitting alongside sleek coffee shops, local bookstores, indie boutiques, and some seriously good food.
Farm-to-table is big here, and the emphasis on fresh, local ingredients shows up in almost every dish. I was very pleasantly surprised by the quality and the options of food available. Especially for this city being one that the majority of the year caters to college students. There were a variety of options ranging from your traditional laid back restaurant to having higher end dining experiences. Some of my favorite eateries were Western Cafe, Little Star Diner, Revelry, Wild Crumb and Map Brewing.
Can we talk about the brewery and cocktail scene for a second? I was shocked at how many incredible places there were to grab a drink. The city of Bozeman offered one of the best happy hour scenes that I have experienced yet! Lots of bars and restaurants offer incredible deals on their food and drinks during the week and some offer them even on the weekends! Between a half off appetizer and a $3.50 huckleberry martini, I was one very happy customer!
The majority of the people I met in Bozeman were warm, welcoming, and unsurprisingly very outdoorsy. Like, “I just skied this morning and now I’m biking to my brewery shift” levels of outdoorsy.
There’s also a groundedness here. A kind of pride in where they live that is just genuine. Folks were happy to share their favorite hikes, recommend a good trail snack (jerky and huckleberries, by the way), and swap stories about wildlife encounters.
Even at the coffee shops and bars, the service felt a little more personal. It reminded me a lot of Midwestern hospitality, just with more flannel and bear spray.
At the end of the day, living in Bozeman feels a bit like accidentally stumbling into a postcard, then realizing the people are friendly, the food’s surprisingly great, and your weekend plans now include hiking, skiing, or possibly getting chased by a moose (kidding… mostly). Sure, winters are cold and housing isn’t exactly cheap, but the views, the vibe, and the sense of community more than make up for it.
This was by far one of my favorite stays and months since starting my travels and my hardest goodbye of the year.
I cannot wait to return!
